The Escoffier Series continues. Chapter 12: Roasts

At least once a year most of us roast some meat. Roasts are also for the second Tuesday of the month. There is no special reason to have a roast. Getting it right can seem unnerving. This episode will help remove some of that concern so your next roast is the best it can be.

Listen to the show

Thermometer mentioned

ChefTemp Probe Thermometer

Dann’s Cookbook on Amz

Cooking For Comfort

Music

 

 

Return to podcasts page

Drop me a note:podcast@culinarylibertarian.com

Did you like this episode? Please support the show with a contribution below.

$5.00
]
$10.00

Return to podcasts page

Text from the show

Chapter 12 is pretty short. The principles are pretty simple. Let’s just jump in. This is the opening of the chapter.

Wild game and lean cuts of meat, all tenderloins and pork and veal loins, can benefit from barding or larding. I’ve discussed that in the various meat chapters and will revisit it here.

Barding is placing thin slices of fat, usually pork fatback, on the surface of the meat, usually pork or veal, and game birds, to protect the outside from becoming too cooked and hard to cut or eat. There is an intended effect of also allowing some of the fat to be absorbed by the meat. I am not fully convinced this achieves the intended goal. Barding to protect the outside of the meat from being too charred absolutely works. Barded meats should be allowed at the last minutes of cooking to sear and develop that crust and flavor and that means removing the fat.

Larding is sewing pieces of fat back into the lean piece of meat. Venison and wild boar are two very lean meats. Larding, like barding, is intended to allow some of the fat to melt into the meat. Larded meat also has the added effect, a good one, of having some fat to eat with each lean meat bite.

About spit roasting Escoffier offers this. {read 3883}

It’s almost like how do you get to Carnegie Hall: Practice practice practice. He also offers these tips.

Red meat should be seared quickly and then roasted over embers, with no flames, so the heat penetrates without charring the outside.

White meats should be cooked well done and over a sufficient heat to develop a good crust and complete the cooking at the same time.

Game birds should be roasted over wood with a small amount of flame instead of glowing ember heat. Escoffier offers what woods to avoid for spit roasting and those are resinous woods. So, pine. Juniper smells grand in the fireplace but I’m not certain I want that flavor on my food.

Oven roasting is something more of us are familiar with. The biggest concern for the roast is that it be elevated off the bottom of the roasting pan. This can be managed with a rack or by placing metal skewers over the edges to hold the meat. If that’s not possible, long strips of carrot and celery and leeks will keep the meat off the bottom of the pan and add extra flavor to the pan gravy that will be made from the drippings.

Oven roasting is by its nature going to create pan drippings and gather rendered fat. Spit roasting will also create dripping and rendered fat. How to catch them is the trick. At one job we had a gas-fired rotisserie cooker which produced the heat from behind and allowed the juices and fat to drip down. Home cooks probably don’t have that. Any pan used to catch the drippings will first block the heat and second, risk burning whatever falls onto it.

The process to start making the gravy is to deglaze the pan. That’s a rather simple matter of putting the pan on the burner on low heat and adding water to the pan, enough to just cover the bottom, and with a wooden spoon scrape the drippings free as the water loosens the protein and caramel bonds. Stock of the thing roasted or veal stock may be used instead of water.

One challenge is the amount of pan gravy produced is going to be small. In some cases, have a stock of the thing and add the strained deglazed liquid to the stock. Bring it to a boil and thicken it with a corn starch or arrowroot slurry just before service. That is not the Escoffier suggestion which takes several hours.

Escoffier offers two steps or procedures which I don’t agree with. The first is basting. Basting, done properly, is pouring bits of the liquified fat over the meat. Never stock or water. Only the fat. The intention is the fat will penetrate the meat in the mere seconds of contact before gravity pulls it back to the pan. I’ve discussed this previously. I think the result is not worth the effort. The other suggestion he makes is to serve the roast or game bird immediately. Meat benefits immensely from a rest. If you’ve ever seen the serving tray of a Thanksgiving turkey after the bird has been carved too soon, it is full of juice that should be in the bird. So too with a prime rib or crown roast or leg of lamb. And my tri-tip. A resting period is crucial to keeping the moisture in the meat. Everything about the eating experience is made better.

Escoffier goes into a few sides and presentation ideas. He discusses some cuts I doubt any of us can or would buy at the store or butcher shop. Mostly what we have is a whole tenderloin, a whole strip loin, a tri-tip, which is a pretty small piece of meat. I suppose you could find a steamship, the whole rear leg of a cow if you really wanted it.

Roasting a piece of meat properly starts with understanding the relationship between the roast’s size and heat. The smaller the piece of meat, the higher the temperature and shorter the cooking time will be. Large pieces of meat, or really large such as that steamship, start out moderately high, then go low for a long time.

The goal in both cases is to keep the meat medium rare, for red meat, beef, and lamb, and a sufficient crust on the outside. A steamship left to roast at even medium heat, 350, will be far too crusty on the outside and overdone, too. Conversely, slow-cooking a small roast will not develop that desirable crust and it will have less flavor. At a high temperature, 450, for only a few minutes, then turn down the heat to 350 to continue the cooking will make a fine crust on the meat and keep it evenly cooked throughout.

One advantage we have that Escoffier did not have was oven-safe thermometers. They even have a kind of thermometer where the probe is on a cord and it connects to the reader which is outside the oven. No need to open the oven to check what the temperature is.

Since we are going to allow our roasts to rest, that means they will continue to cook even when they are out of the oven. A turkey will increase by about 15 degrees. A tri-tip about 10 degrees. A strip loin or prime rib may increase 15 degrees as they rest.

I know why, or at least I think I know why, Escoffier said to serve the meat immediately. The crust developed will not get better as the meat rests. I see that with roasted chicken. The skin is all crispy and inviting and then it gets just a bit less crispy while I’m waiting for the chicken to reach its final carry-over temperature. The trade-off is crispy skin and dry meat or slightly less crispy skin and delicious meat. Easy choice for me.

Roasts are pretty easy and, for the most part, are spared the Escoffier treatment of a lot of labor. Google Escoffier procedure 3914, Truffled Young Turkey for the epitome of the Escoffier treatment.

 

Butter is better for you so eat more of it.

Food is not immune to Newspeak. In fact, it is pretty much certain if the narrative is that some food is bad for you then it’s actually good for you so eat it.

Butter gets a bad rap because the narrative says so. It’s one of the best fats you can eat. We’ll discuss why.

Listen to the show

Dann’s cookbook on Amz

Cooking For Comfort

Music

 

 

Test from the show, links included

Butter is the topic today. And that opens the doors to many other issues. Calories. Saturated fats. Low cholesterol, LDL. Heart disease. Diabetes. I’ll cover calories and saturated fats versus unsaturated fats and also cholesterol. The major diseases in the US caused, in part, by poor diet are for another show.

The first place to start is to know what butter is. Butter is the butterfat molecules from cow’s milk. Butterfat is agitated, churned or in some way acted upon to cause the butterfat molecules to stick together. As they grow into larger and larger bits of butterfat, the emulsion they are in breaks down and we see water and butterfat. If you have ever overwhipped heavy cream into butter, you’ve seen this happen. Butter making, that is, gathering all the butterfat molecules together to form butter is a one-way street. You can’t put it back how it was.

That yellowish blob is butter. It isn’t pure fat. Oddly, butter is about 75-80 percent butterfat with the balance being water and milk solids. Clarified butter is pure butterfat. In a commercial kitchen, butter and clarified butter are two distinct products. Whole butter is used for baking and pastry work. Whole butter does have a use on the hot line to finish sauces or make Beurre Blancs or browned butter, and to add to vegetables. Clarified butter is for making Hollandaise and sauteing meats and veg. The chief reason clarified butter is preferred for sauteing is there are no bits in it to brown like whole butter will. 

That’s a fast summary of what it is and how to use it. What about the eating of it?

We Americans have been beaten about the proverbial head and shoulders to avoid butter. Eat vegetable oil instead. I remember my mom buying Squeeze Parkay. What an invention. Already liquid “butter” that you can just point and squeeze where you want it. 

Part of the discussion between animal fats and seed oils is how they are produced. Butter is pretty easy to make and anyone can do it. Soybean oil or canola oil takes machinery, hexane, and special kinds of soaps to clean the oil, and then there’s purification. On the toxic free future website, they offer this about hexane. “Easily inhaled or absorbed through the skin, hexane has been recognized for more than 40 years to cause long-lasting and even permanent nerve damage in feet, legs, hands, and arms.” Seed oil producers insist, I can’t say they are wrong, that hexane is removed from the final product. Openaccesspub.com writes that “a trace amount of hexane may be found in the final product.” When you consider that seed oils may already be rancid in the container, there are more than a few reasons to avoid them.

If seed oils are so bad and the process can’t guarantee purity, why are they pushed so hard for Americans to eat?

That’s another show. Briefly, between lobbying efforts to push so-called vegetable oils and Ansel Keys popular, and flawed, research that animal fats are unhealthy, the US has been pushing the seed oils claiming them to be healthier than animal fats.

What is healthy? It sounds very important so we should be able to say very plainly what healthy means and what it is.

The answer to that depends on which political side of the food fence you’re on. Carnivores, Keto and Paleo folks are for animal fats. Vegetarians are a mixed lot who seem to tend toward seed oils. Vegans don’t eat animal fats. That is not, of course, an answer to what is healthy.

Healthy foods should improve the health of the person eating them. Sounds reasonable, right? It is, it seems to me, very reasonable. And now we really get to the messy part of the issue with a simple question. What is healthy?

I asked Google what healthy food means. It gave a website with an impressive answer. “Healthy food is food that gives you all the nutrients you need to stay healthy, feel well and have plenty of energy” comes off the Safefood.net page. That line was on the search results page. I clicked the link and the impressive went away. What I found was the standard narrative, and it is a narrative. Eat lots of fruits and vegetables and grains. Lean protein a couple of times a week and vegetable oils. Animal fats have cholesterol.

This was a simple question about one single ingredient. Repeat a lie often enough and it becomes the truth. That’s attributed to Joseph Goebbels. It may as well be the marching orders for governments and their agencies.

What is it about butter that makes it better than margarine? That’s a question we can answer. To do so, we’ll start with a podcast from Nourishing Traditions, the podcast from the Weston A Price Foundation. Sally Fallon Morell is the guest and she’s also the founding president of the Weston A Price Foundation.

Sally explains that all animal fats were demonized. Butter got extra special treatment which included shaming housewives and moms who cooked with butter and not the new, modern shortening.

Butter advocates, like Sally, point out that before the invention and widespread use of Crisco, heart disease and obesity were almost non-existent. Since the move to processed fats and foods, the health and wellness of Americans have seen a pretty steady downturn up through the 80s.

Critics will point out that there were loads of changes in lifestyle from 1880 to 1980. That’s true. Another common and increasing thread was the production and consumption of processed foods. The more food manufacturers–think about that phrase, food manufacturer–innovated and invented “foods” that don’t exist in nature, the more Americans got fat and sick.

Butter is a natural food. Butterfat is a natural product of cows. It’s healthy and here’s why. Butterfat has butyric acid. Butter also is a source of Vitamins A, D, and K, which are fat-soluble vitamins. Fat-soluble vitamins are stored in the body’s fat and liver. There’s a very good chance you’ve never heard of vitamin K. It’s worth learning about. 

A bit more about fat-soluble vitamins from the Weston A Price website. “These fat-soluble vitamins are also necessary for hormone production, normal growth, neurological function, and protection against chronic disease such as cancer and heart disease.”

Butyric acid is a short-chain fatty acid that helps in the gut microbiome. We’ve covered the gut microbiome at least once, which isn’t enough. Butryic acid can also be made in the body when grains and high-fiber foods are fermented in the body which creates this acid. Butyric acid is energy for the cells in the colon and aids in digestion, improves the gut and intestines, and calms inflammation.

Butyric acid can be made in the body yet none of them creates more than the 4% of butyric acid found in butter.

One big issue used against animal fats is they are saturated fats. They are saturated with hydrogen atoms. This is a woefully crude illustration but I think it works. Imagine your shower curtain. At the top are spots for shower curtain hooks. When all the hooks are an eyelet, the shower curtain is saturated with curtain hooks. Remove one hook and it’s a mono-unsaturated shower curtain. Remove two or more and it’s a poly-unsaturated shower curtain. Turn your shower curtain into a long chain of carbon atoms and, if at every place a hydrogen atom can attach one is attached, that’s a saturated fat.

Okay, big deal. It’s saturated with hydrogen. That means it’s solid at room temperature. “Saturated fats play essential structural roles in the body, and specific saturated fatty acids have specific benefits to energy metabolism, immunity, intestinal health and metabolic health.” That’s from a page on the Weston A Price website. The text from this show is on the show notes page and this page will be linked there. The rabbit hole is vast. Like Watership Down vast. I encourage you to jump in. Not only for the saturated fats but also cholesterol and calories.

Cholesterol could maybe be half a dozen shows. It’s not going to be.

Cholesterol is a natural fat made by the human body. The body makes it because it needs it. Needs. As in it is vital. It is vital to the function of the brain and the nervous system. Cholesterol is a powerful antioxidant and cholesterol, particularly the so-called bad LDL, helps fight infections.

It’s almost as if they want you to lower your “bad” cholesterol to get sick so they can push a pill onto you. Nah. That can’t be.

There’s far too much about cholesterol to cover here. I’ll add this relevant piece about LDL since it is the thing often mentioned. It’s the bad one, remember, so best to reduce it. 

Nina Teicholz, the author of The Big Fat Lie and owner of the Nutrition Coalition website offers this about LDL cholesterol in reference to the USDA Dietary Guidelines. You know, MyPlate. “LDL-cholesterol is especially unreliable in trials involving saturated fats, since it has been known for years that LDL comes in different particle sizes and that saturated fats increase only the kind of LDL particle (large, and ‘buoyant’) that is associated with less cardiovascular risk.

There’s one last food issue with butter. Calories.

Calories are not, in my opinion, of particular concern on any given day. 2000 calories is pretty hard for me to do. What never seems to be discussed is the source of calories. A packet of sugar has 16 calories. If you eat 125 packets of sugar you hit your 2000 calorie limit. The probability is high that everyone agrees that’s a stupid way to get 2000 calories.

Any conversation about calories has to start with the source of those calories. One serving of butter is a tablespoon. That has 100 calories. Ingredients are pasteurized cream, lactic acid and it contains milk. Strawberry Banana Cheerios has 240 calories for 1 Cup portion with 3/4 of a cup of skim milk. The ingredients are whole-grain oats, sugar, corn syrup, banana puree, corn starch, strawberry puree, canola and/or sunflower oil and stuff I can’t pronounce. From a numbers standpoint, that’s a simple choice. From an ingredient standpoint, as long as you know what you’re reading, it’s also an easy choice. Seed oils cause harm. I don’t think there’s an upside for humans to consume seed oils. If you read the list correctly, it is sugar, sugar, sugar, sugar, sugar, sugar, and sugar and seed oil and stuff. In the right light, calories alone isn’t a useful metric. Why is 2000 calories the magic line is a good question and another show.

We’ve gone a long way from the humble stick of butter. We’re almost done. The last point isn’t about the butter but the politics around butter and food in general.

I did an episode on the Great Food Transformation which involves the World Health Organization–think Bill Gates–the World Economic Forum, the United Nations, and hundreds of corporate food sponsors all agreeing that animal sources of food are bad for the planet. EAT has partnered with Lancet, Oxford and Harvard to push the vegan agenda. If there is cash to be earned banning something or promoting something, you can be sure there’s a lobby for it and they are talking to Congress about it.

For the last 60 years or so there’s been a very effective fear campaign against meat and butter. It continues with renewed vigor and piles of cash for the campaigns. Push though they do, they can’t change the truth that meat and butter are healthy. That means they contribute to the health and wellness of the person eating it by providing energy, vitamins and minerals, and essential protein and fat.